Holagarta

Not too well-known islands in the north-west of Norway attract wild climate and charming nature. We have chosen for my visit to the month of June, one of the driest islands (only 14 rain days ). The weather I had a really incredibly lucky, because in the period between 6 and 6.20 all in all it rained twice. 
During our visit came a new climbing guide “Lofoten Rock”, which is to be available in bookstores in Svolvaer for NK 392. The guide is full of photos, detailed descriptions of routes and other useful information. 
My whole time I was in the region and Henningsvaer Kalle, which are among the most important climbing in terms of number of trips. A total of 14 days without any problems, we camped in the open Gulf of Kalle about 5 minutes drive from the main island road. At the camp toilets, drinking water taps, wooden tables with benches and trash cans. Local technical services but do not work too often, so overflowing with garbage bags soon ended up in the care of local seagulls. They are capable of almost anything rozklovat. 
As regards the actual climbing, in most cases you come across a beautiful granite nelámavou compact, interwoven with joints in all shapes and sizes. Local climbers are proud of the fact that the whole island is only a necessary minimum and only borháků iron, in a way that is often found slaňák. But this is not the rule, because a large number of ways to descend on foot. This condition is local and tries to keep nepřivítají definitely someone with a drill. The move seamlessly take advantage of two sets of Friend (mostly small and medium size), 1-2 sets of anchors and abalaky.Two sets of twins or over and almost half are commonplace, especially in vícedelkových ways that have more the character of mountain climbing. Local classification is about half a degree harder (local 6 is about 6 + UIAA of these paths is a local classification), but it is relatively reliable. 
Climbing can be right at the campground at 1 to 4 longitudinal walls towering above the tents (eg . jednodélková Left-hand crack 6). The tent is also impressive to see the north face Vagakallenu dubbed as Bonattiho pillar Lofoten with the now legendary journey Freya 8/A3. For familiarization with the terrain is recommended in the guide area PARADISET about 10 minutes walk from the campsite. They’re jednodélkové boulders and short path, but go for nearly 4000 km roads desetimetrovým not worth it. Right from PARADISET rises Myggapillaren with two several paths of length dvouhvězdičkovými Wee Beastie (4 lengths) at 6 and Mygga (9 lengths) for 5 +. But we all agreed that they neither of them deserve stars, plus a guide advised Standa not in the way. Apparently urezly perhaps due to the sea air, but we did not encounter even on the track after that, that there ever were. In the place described in the first Standa Mygga length of the journey was just smooth granite. 
Climbing the most rewarding, the most beautiful and largest area is Henningsvaer, which is located approximately 15 minutes drive from the campground and extends several kilometers along the sea to the town of the same name. One of the cribs this area is impressive Presten wall with nearly 500 meter routes. Nejlezenější is the way Vestpillaren 6 (467 m, 10 lengths), so it is nice to be reckon with the other two. The solution is to board early, but the wall is up to 12 in the shade or take advantage of the polar day and getting up late in the afternoon. The Prestenu slanit is only first 4-5 lengths. The descent from the top of the ridge leads around (about 1.5 hours). We also climbed routes Codfather 7, Yperpresten 6, but only the last slaňákům. 
Who wants to warm up, then it is very beautiful area with 1-3 Gandlaf paths of length or area with predominantly Pianokrakken jednodélkovými ways. All areas are basically the main road, 5 minutes up the hill. 
But there are ways for which it pays to go even further. Beautiful 7-length BARE Blabaer for 5 – is about an hour along the bay, or Dr. Jekyll 6 (52-meter Ádrovský rajbas with seven rivets) with 20 minute approach. Definitely worth 15 minutes to scramble up the hill below the onset Solens Sonner 6 (135 m), which rises above the Gulf. The road is beautiful, although a little daring, especially in the second length. 
Lofoten climbing are beautiful and photogenic area where it is worth to come back.If only it were not so far. Do not forget to pack and Rod lezečkám because local cod liven up nicely imported instant food.

The best way to meet climbers in an unfamiliar city is to go to the wall, preferably on a boulder. The one in Salamanca, Tablón, even one in the city, which is an advantage here goes … everyone. I went there on Wednesday and then I met some people I know and especially Jose. It is from Chile and he is here on a student exchange program (like most young people). On Thursday we agreed that we go somewhere for the weekend. We chose Valdesangil area. It is about 65 km south of Salamanca. We went by bus (about 5 € / pers.) Béjar direction and the driver fired at us willingly kruháči in turn in the village Valdesangil. Quite enough we then had to walk. But Jose, although there has never been elected an amazing shortcut: Right straight to rock! The fact that we went through a myriad of private land and climbed a lot of stone walls was still cool. When we passed a house from the porch looking at us bushy medium large guard dog, I was a little nervous, but Jose: “Es un perro muy simpatico” calmed me a bit. It was worse when we finished the hole in the wall next to us and became a large animal. Whew, it was a cow and not alone, there was a whole flock. And the farther we measured a serious view of the bull. José Tentokát me reassure you that it is still young and open environment that bulls never attack the person. He was right, not attack. But I breathed until the next wall.That’s the terrain rose and we climbed to about half of the hill, where it went tongue out as rock solid. There were about 20 routes. On the left, perpendicular sections were ways around 8a, some with artificial holds: (, lying on the right of way were considerably lighter rojbasové. We, though we had borrowed from Boulder guide, we were not too sure if “it is” So I kind of unconsciously vyhlídli to rozlezení Sokolikova a gap for 7a + … But we did it with obtížema though (we had only 6 swamp). Then we slowed down a bit … We met a group of climbers too with dogs, so was funny. In addition, one of them, we agreed that next time we go with him and the car  It is made ​​of granite here, as indeed everywhere in the hills around us. Roads 20 to 40 meters, sporty rivets secured. Are there any gaps and notches, but the vast majority of trips are rajbasy. Valdesangil In villages there are other sectors with a much larger number of routes. Those we had planned for Sunday, but if nazačalo rain. And because the tent was not favorable prospects for the next day, we packed up and returned in the evening. There Bejar (70 km) is still about another 12 areas of boulders from a few hundred meters long wall. But this we leave for another time … Houle